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skip to main | skip to sidebar we are what we do, and not the stuff we lay claim to. monday, june 24, 2013 deadfall a bit big of deadfall blocking trails in af canyon right now. managed to drag my bike under this. spooked this moose cow and her calf out of their wallow. couldn't find a way through this. time to buy a chainsaw. posted by at 7:18 pm 33 comments: links to this post email this blogthis! share to twitter share to facebook share to pinterest labels: moto thursday, june 6, 2013 fork rebuild while riding on memorial day, i overcooked a corner and hit a tree. the impact blew out one of my fork seals, which i didn't notice right away but did notice later when i tried to brake and the fork oil all over my front brake made it not work so well. it was time to change the fork oil anyway, so throwing new seals into the mix wasn't a big deal. this is not intended to be a comprehensive guide, just a walk through the process. if you're comfortable changing engine oil and filters and removing your front wheel, fork seals aren't a whole lot more difficult. just make sure to consult your owner's manual for the proper procedure, as every fork is a little different, and it's entirely possible that i forgot something. this video is also helpful. put the bike on the stand and remove the front wheel. remove the front brake caliper and the plastic fork leg guards. dial back the rebound to zero. take note of the position of the fork legs in the triple clamps so you can put them back to the same height. loosen the top caps on the fork legs. then loosen the triple clamps and remove the fork legs. once the fork leg is removed, finish unscrewing the top cap. compress the spring enough to expose the top of the damper assembly where it connects to the top cap and put an end wrench (in my case, 19mm) on the damper assembly. put another wrench on the top cap and remove the top cap from the damper assembly. remove the spring, spring spacer, and damping rod from inside the fork leg and place them on a clean towel. dump the fork oil into a catch container where it can be recycled. pry the dust seal off of the bottom of the slider. remove the retaining clip from the oil seal and then extend the fork firmly to pop the oil seal out of the slider. remove the seal and bushings from the stanchion. clean all the parts you are going to reuse (in my case, everything but the oil seals) and then reassemble starting with dust seal, then retaining clip, oil seal, spacer ring, bushing, and pilot bushing. compress the slider completely and add about 2/3 of the required fork oil. pump the damping rod a few times to work the new oil into the damping unit. then fill the fork to the required level, measuring from the top of the compressed slider to the top of the oil level. once the oil level is correct, replace the damping rod, spring spacer, and spring. screw the top cap back on to the damping unit and tighten to the proper torque. tighten the top caps into the sliders until they are hand tight. replace fork legs in triple clamps to the correct position and tighten triple clamp bolts just enough to hold them in place. replace the front wheel. once everything is in the right place, torque fork legs in triple clamps and then torque the top cap. reset the rebound damping to the desired setting. replace the brake caliper and the plastic. remove the bike from the stand and give everything a final check. if your brakes got oil on them, make sure to clean them thoroughly with brake cleaner. give the bike a test ride to make sure everything is working properly before hitting the trail. go ride. posted by at 10:21 am 15 comments: links to this post email this blogthis! share to twitter share to facebook share to pinterest labels: moto tuesday, may 28, 2013 the $65 alternative to a rekluse clutch several of my dirt bike riding friends have rekluse clutches installed on their bikes. a rekluse is an auto clutch, so shifting is still manual, but braking doesn't require disengaging the clutch to avoid stalling the motor. similar to an automatic transmission in a car, it's centrifugal, so the clutch engages and puts power from motor to drive as engine speed increases. the advantage of the rekluse is apparent in slow speed technical riding where stalling the engine is likely. my propensity to stall my engine in these situations caused me to give a rekluse some serious consideration. there are only two problems: 1) my bike has a big bore kit, so there isn't a readily available rekluse clutch; and 2) even if a rekluse were available, i am reluctant to drop hundreds of dollars to buy one. additionally, a rekluse isn't perfect--you lose some of the manual control, such as popping the clutch to raise the front wheel to clear an obstacle. enter the midwest mountain engineering clutch lever. this lever changes the pivot mechanics, reducing clutch actuation force by ~50% with a much shorter throw. this means you can cover the clutch with one finger with much less finger fatigue, allowing the rider to more easily modulate the clutch in technical riding. additionally, it's a "shorty" style lever, with only room for two fingers, which i prefer because the ends of my fingers not on the lever don't get pinched between lever and grip. i installed mine over the weekend and tried it out in some of the steepest, rockiest conditions i have ridden to date*. i don't think i would have made it up some of those climbs with my old lever--i simply would not have had enough control. would a rekluse have been better? possibly, but that takes us back to reasons 1 and 2 above. *and quite possibly that i will ever ride, as i am never, ever riding up trail 39 in af canyon again. the midwest lever isn't perfect either. with the lighter pull and the shorter throw, adjustment must be more fine-tuned than with the stock lever. i thought i had mine adjusted correctly but found that my clutch was slipping a bit and had to make several trailside adjustments to get it just right. additionally, it is only available for hydraulic clutches. mechanical clutch users, which basically means everyone not on a ktm, husaberg, or husqvarna, are out of luck. drawbacks notwithstanding and only two rides in, i'm sold. it took maybe ten minutes to install, and it's an inexpensive part that makes riding noticeably better. posted by at 11:57 am 28 comments: links to this post email this blogthis! share to twitter share to facebook share to pinterest labels: moto , reviews sunday, may 5, 2013 repetition my first few rides on the dirt bike, i just went out and rode trails. i dumped my bike at least once on every ride. let's just say it's a lot heavier and faster than the mountain bike, and keeping all of that under control requires more skill than i presently possess. i then went to five mile pass with some friends who had just completed a shane watts riding course. rather than ride trails, we found a big, steep tailings pile and practiced riding up and down that. then we went to another tailings pile and practiced some more. rinse, repeat for three hours until i was too tired to try anything new. my next ride after that was with the neighborhood guys, and we went to the mx track in north salt lake. i chased little kids on 50s and 65s around the mini moto track for a couple of hours. i wasn't fast, but i got a better feel for how far i can lean my bike in a corner, and there may have even been air visible under both wheels a few times. then it was off to moab for the weekend. had i only ridden more trails and not worked on my skills, the trip would not have been nearly as much fun. that said, i have a long way to go. but for me, the journey is what keeps me interested. trying something new that i'm not very good at and seeing myself get better over time is a reward in itself. posted by at 9:23 am 25 comments: links to this post email this blogthis! share to twitter share to facebook share to pinterest labels: moto sunday, april 7, 2013 a few observations las

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Whois Information

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Domain Name: SKIBIKEJUNKIE.COM
Registry Domain ID: 1549260627_DOMAIN_COM-VRSN
Registrar WHOIS Server: whois.enom.com
Registrar URL: http://www.enom.com
Updated Date: 2018-03-18T23:47:34Z
Creation Date: 2009-03-25T16:46:42Z
Registry Expiry Date: 2019-03-25T16:46:42Z
Registrar: eNom, Inc.
Registrar IANA ID: 48
Registrar Abuse Contact Email:
Registrar Abuse Contact Phone:
Domain Status: clientTransferProhibited https://icann.org/epp#clientTransferProhibited
Name Server: DNS1.NAME-SERVICES.COM
Name Server: DNS2.NAME-SERVICES.COM
Name Server: DNS3.NAME-SERVICES.COM
Name Server: DNS4.NAME-SERVICES.COM
Name Server: DNS5.NAME-SERVICES.COM
DNSSEC: unsigned
URL of the ICANN Whois Inaccuracy Complaint Form: https://www.icann.org/wicf/
>>> Last update of whois database: 2019-01-27T10:02:07Z <<<

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  REGISTRAR eNom, Inc.

SERVERS

  SERVER com.whois-servers.net

  ARGS domain =skibikejunkie.com

  PORT 43

  TYPE domain

DOMAIN

  NAME skibikejunkie.com

  CHANGED 2018-03-18

  CREATED 2009-03-25

STATUS
clientTransferProhibited https://icann.org/epp#clientTransferProhibited

NSERVER

  DNS1.NAME-SERVICES.COM 98.124.243.1

  DNS2.NAME-SERVICES.COM 64.98.151.1

  DNS3.NAME-SERVICES.COM 98.124.243.2

  DNS4.NAME-SERVICES.COM 64.98.151.2

  DNS5.NAME-SERVICES.COM 98.124.243.3

  REGISTERED yes

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